The Candle Cauldron
Troubleshooting Guide

(white snowflake like marks)
Too much oil in wax. 

Cooled too fast. 
Too much mold release.

Use a higher melt point or harder wax 
Additives like Vybar, Micro or Poly will reduce or cease mottling. 
Cool slower. 
Wipe out extra mold release.
Air Bubbles Cooled too fast. 
Poured too cold. 
Poured too fast. 
Air didn't release. 
Cool slower. 
Pour at a hotter temperature. 
Pour more slowly and carefully. 
Tap the mold to release air bubbles.  Also try tilting while pouring.
White frost marks or lines 
(also called 'jump lines')
Too much stearic acid. 
Mold was too cold. 
Poured too cold.
Try using less additive. 
Try warming the mold before pouring. 
Pour at a hotter temperature.
Candle won't come out of mold Didn't use mold release. 

Pouring temp too hot. 

Second pour over fill line. 

Spray mold with silicon or lightly wipe with vegetable oil before pouring. 
Check max temp on plastic and rubber molds. 
Do not pour over original fill line on repours. 
Put candle in freezer for a few minutes and many times it will pop right out.
Sink hole in center of candle Natural shrinkage while cooling Wax naturally expands as it's heated and contracts as it cools.  This is totally normal and unavoidable. 
Try warming the mold or container before pouring.  Also, the hotter the pouring temp, the more shrinkage there will be.  Poke holes around wick and refill while cooling.  This may need to be done several times.
Cracks in candle Cooled too fast Cool at room temperature or in warm water bath.  Cooling in the fridge or freezer can cause cracking.
Repour layer not blending Second pour too cool Do the repour when the candle is still warm and not fully hardened yet.
Small pit/pock marks Too much mold release. 

Poured too hot.

Wipe out mold and only leave light film of release. 
Lower pouring temperature.
Candle smokes when burned Wick too large. 
Air pockets in candle. 

Flame too high 
High oil content

Try smaller wick size. 
Use higher pouring temperature and poke release holes and refill. 
Keep the wick trimmed to 1/4 inch. 
Less oil will reduce smoke and soot.
Wick drowning out/not staying lit Wick too small. 
Wick getting clogged. 
Try larger size wick. 
Do not use dyes that container pigments, use those only for overdipping.
Flame too large Wick too large Try smaller wick size.
Flame too small Wick too small Try larger size wick.
Melt pool too small/ 
leaves leftover wax on sides of container
Wax too hard/too high melt point. 

Wick too small.

Try a lower melt point/softer wax or additives such as petrolatum, hydrogenated vegetable oil, mineral oil, or beeswax. 
Try larger wick size.
Flame flickers/sputters Water trapped in wick from water bath. 
Water in wax. 
Make sure wick hole is sealed completely on mold. 
Be careful not to let any water drops from double boiler get into wax.
Oil droplets on candle surface Too much oil in wax Reduce amount of oil added to avoid oil leaking or seeping out.
Not enough fragrance when burning Low quality fragrance. 

Not enough fragrance. 

Fragrance burned away too much before pouring. 

Fragrance not able to release/escape into air.

Try a better quality/stronger/concentrated fragrance product. 

Use a higher percentage of fragrance in wax. 

Add fragrance last, just before pouring. 

Use a softer/lower melt point wax to produce a larger melt pool so fragrance can release.  Do not use too much of any binding additives.

"Wet Spots" in containers Wax not adhering to jar in places Try pre-heating the jars before pouring into them.  Certain additives may also help, such as petrolatum, beeswax, or micro wax.  Make sure your glass jars are clean before using.    You can also use a heat gun to re-heat the outside of the jars and get rid of the wet spots. (This also works with bubbles and jump lines)

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D. St.John *Crystal* of The Candle Cauldron
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