The Burning Question
Candle FAQ's & Tips
Here are some
helpful hints and tips I've collected on candlemaking, candle burning and
candles in general that didn't fit into any other categories here :)
|Q ~ How do I seal my mold so it won't
leak around the wick?
|A ~ Try using a rubber washer under your wick screw. Then
spread mold sealer putty over it, completely covering it.
|Q ~ How do I calculate the burn time
of a candle?
|A ~ Before lighting the candle, use a scale to weigh it and find it's
total weight. Then light and let burn for 3 hours (assuming it's
a 3 inch diameter candle). Weigh the candle again. Now you
can calculate the burn rate. For example, if you have a 16 oz candle to
begin with, and after 3 hours of burning it weighs 15.5 oz, then
that means it burned .5 oz in 3 hours. Split that in
3, so in 1 hour .16 oz burned away. Now take your original
total weight (16) and divide that by your per hour burn rate (.16).
This would give you a total burn time of approximately 100 hours.
Note: Another guideline to consider is that a standard 2 ounce
sized votive candle mold is rated as a 15 hour votive mold by the manufacturers.
Divide by 2 and that would mean that each ounce should burn for about 7.5
hours. This can vary and will greatly depend on your formula, but
you can use this as a goal to aim for.
|Q ~ What do the three sets of numbers
on the wicks mean?
|A ~ The first number "44" is the thickness of the wick. The
bigger this number, the thicker the wick. The second number "24" is coded
for the speed of which the string (all wicks start out with very thin string)
goes thru the wicking machine gears. The faster it goes thru the machine
the tighter the wick is wicked, which should slow the wick from burning
too fast. The last number "18" is a code for the temperature of the wax
as the string (wick) goes thru the various gears. This temperature varies
according to the previous numbers.
|Q ~ Will putting candles in the
make them burn longer?
|A ~ Some say Yes...
some say No! Refrigerating candles before use
is said to help them burn more slowly and evenly, but according to the article
linked above, it does not truly help. Candles should be wrapped in
foil or plastic before refrigeration to prevent the wicks from absorbing
|Q ~ Is there a certain length of time
a candle should be burned?
|A ~ Yes. The maximum burning time for a candle, at one
setting, should be no more than one hour for each inch of its diameter,
example: A 4 inch wide jar candle should be burned for 4 hours at
|Q ~ What is that Bayberry candle poem,
I can't remember it...
|A ~ "This bayberry candle is a gift from a friend, on
Christmas Eve burn it down to the end.
A bayberry candle burned down to the socket, brings luck to the home
and wealth to the pocket."
|Q ~ Can I use crayons to color my candles?
|A ~ The use of crayons in place of candle dye is not recommended
because they contain pigments that can clog the candle's wick while burning
and cause the flame to drown out. Not to mention that crayon smell!
|Q ~ Which way does the "V" go in the
|A ~ The "V" goes up, open end at the top.
|Q ~ How do I clean my metal molds,
tools and containers?
|A ~ Place your molds, tools or containers upside down on a cookie
sheet lined with aluminum foil and place it in an oven heated to about
150 degrees. Once the wax has melted and run out onto the foil, you
can wipe them clean with a paper towel while still hot. Be careful
not to burn yourself!
|Q ~ What is Bloom?
|A ~ After time you may notice a white powdery dust on your beeswax.
This is bloom. It is a natural occurrence on beeswax & a good
indication your beeswax is pure. It can be easily removed by the
heat of a blow dryer or gently wiping it off with a cloth. A similar white
powdery finish can often be found on soy wax candles.